Pitmaster, p.7
Pitmaster, page 7
1 tablespoon (20 g) blackstrap molasses
1 tablespoon (15 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
2 pounds (900 g) chopped pork barbecue
2 cups (312 g) fresh lima beans (or substitute [328 g] frozen lima beans)
3 ears of corn, husked and kernels removed
Kosher salt and black pepper, to taste
Skylight Inn Cornbread, or Cornbread with Butter, Honey, and Sea Salt, for serving
METHOD
Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat for 2 to 3 minutes. Sauté the onion, carrots, and garlic, stirring frequently, until golden brown and softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the stock, canned tomatoes, barbecue sauce, ketchup, Worcestershire sauce, molasses, vinegar, crushed red pepper flakes, kosher salt, dried thyme, and bay leaf. Mix well. Bring to a boil, stirring occasionally, and then reduce heat to medium and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes.
Add the pork, lima beans, and corn kernels. Let simmer uncovered for an additional 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Season with kosher salt and freshly cracked black pepper to taste. Remove the bay leaf. Serve immediately with warm cornbread.
STORAGE
Refrigerate, covered, for up to 3 days.
“New Barbecue”
Elizabeth Karmel
CAROLINA CUE TO-GO
I fell in love with barbecue because it’s not only a way to cook, it’s a community. And as far as I’m concerned, there’s room for everybody and every style. To me, barbecue has always been about how delicious it is.
I grew up in North Carolina and I was known for my North Carolina–style barbecue. Then, I opened Hill Country Barbecue Market in New York, serving Teas-style barbecue. Now, I have an online barbecue shack called CarolinaCue To-Go, a mash-up of Eastern North Carolina–style whole hog and my Western North Carolina–style sauce. I think tradition is essential—but I also think this is the best North Carolina barbecue I’ve ever had.
Understanding the origins of barbecue is really important. But it’s equally important for us to recognize the evolution of barbecue. I feel very strongly about food traditions. They make up who we are as people. As a Southerner who left the South, a lot of my identity has to do with the food I grew up with. But what I’m doing at Carolina Cue To-Go is not traditional. I don’t want anyone to think that it is. We need to do a better job differentiating between the traditional legendary barbecue and this new way of cooking. We need history and perspective, but we can also celebrate new ideas and new ways of doing things. We should give them a moniker like “New Barbecue,” the way that the French coined haute cuisine.
The only rule of barbecue is wood … It’s not true barbecue unless it has a kiss of wood smoke.
Look at central Texas. There is a whole new generation of pitmasters that is changing things. They are wrapping their meat, so it steams. It’s much more succulent than the traditional open-pit, drier Central Texas barbecue.
And if you only read the headlines and don’t get into the nitty gritty, you would think that some of these young upstarts are the best barbecue in Texas. What we should be saying is that they are the best of a new generation of pitmasters in Texas. Texas has barbecue restaurants that are 150 years old, pitmasters who have been in business for three or four generations and they’ve been cooking in the same pit and using the same techniques for that long. We need to be proud of that and talk about that, too.
To me, the only rule of barbecue is wood. It’s a necessary flavoring ingredient. You absolutely have to use wood. That is the distinction between grilling and barbecue; the food has to have a touch of smoke.
I have no problem with an electric fan-assisted grill. Some people say it’s not a real smoker if you have to use electricity, but I think it’s okay. And I don’t think there’s any problem with a gas assist. We’re just too quick to say “that’s not a real barbecue restaurant” because it uses a gas-assist smoker. But it’s not true barbecue unless it has a kiss of wood smoke.
◁ Butterflied Grilled Duck with Spicy Watermelon Glaze
Not everything in North Carolina is pork and vinegar. Elizabeth Karmel is one of the best grillers we know and here is her fabulous duck and watermelon recipe. The key is setting up your grill for indirect yet medium high heat—around 325°F (170°C). A kamado–style ceramic smoker, such as a Big Green Egg, is the perfect grill for this recipe.
Prep time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 2 1/2 hours
Serves: 4 to 6
INGREDIENTS
2 whole ducks (4 to 5 pounds, or 1.8 to 2.3 kg each)
Olive oil, as needed
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper, as needed
2 cups (475 ml) Spicy Watermelon Glaze
METHOD
Remove the ducks from the packaging and pat dry with paper towels. Using poultry or kitchen shears, cut along each side of the back bone and remove it. Turn the duck breast side up. Open the two sides of the duck as if you were opening a book and lay it flat. Break the breast bone by firmly applying pressure and pressing down—you may break a few rib bones in the process. Tuck the wing tip under the upper wing and place on a sheet pan.
Prepare your smoker or grill for indirect cooking. Target 300 to 325°F (150 to 170°C) and add a few chunks of hardwood to your charcoal bed when the ducks go on.
Brush the ducks all over with olive oil. Season lightly on both sides with kosher salt and black pepper. Place the ducks skin side up in the center of the grill or a smoker and let cook for about 2 hours before glazing.
After two hours, brush the glaze on the ducks. Continue cooking for 20 to 30 more minutes, brushing with the glaze 2 more times during the final grilling time. Cook until the juices run clear and the thigh registers 190˚F (90°C).
Remove the ducks from the grill; brush with glaze one last time and let rest for 10 minutes. Cut the duck into halves or quarters and serve.
STORAGE
Wrap room temperature leftover duck tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
SPICY WATERMELON GLAZE
Prep time: 15 minutes
Cook time: 15 minutes
Yield: 1 quart (946 ml)
INGREDIENTS
4 cups (600 g) watermelon chunks (about 1/2 of a small watermelon)
1 jar (12 ounces, or 340 g) apple jelly
Juice and zest of 1 small lime
2 teaspoons crushed red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon jalapeño hot sauce
Pinch of kosher salt
METHOD
Place the watermelon on a food mill or juicer and collect the juice. You should have about 1 cup (235 ml) of juice. Discard the seeds and solid bits.
Put the apple jelly in a small, heavy-bottomed saucepan over low heat. Melt the jelly, stirring occasionally so that it doesn’t burn. When the jelly is melted, add the watermelon juice and stir to combine. Add the lime juice and zest and stir again. Add the crushed red pepper flakes, jalapeño hot sauce, and kosher salt. Mix and taste, adjusting the seasoning if desired.
You can use warm or let cool and transfer to a clean jar.
STORAGE
The glaze will keep tightly covered in the refrigerator for up to 2 days.
3
Kansas City
“ … So that truth, justice, excellence in Barbecue and the American way of life may be strengthened and preserved forever.”
-KANSAS CITY BARBECUE SOCIETY JUDGES OATH
The United States is a diverse country, and there are many different opinions on the definition of the “American way of life” enshrined in the Kansas City Barbecue Society oath. But no matter your point of view, it’s hard to argue that democracy is not one of the most important aspects.
No region represents barbecue democracy better than Kansas City. The Kansas City barbecue scene is chock full of old-time joints, new-school restaurants, backyarders, competition teams for miles, and everything in between. The ultimate barbecue convention is the American Royal Open held in Kansas City each October. The event is a come-one, come-all barbecue mecca where over 600 teams compete, celebrate, and break bread. Quite possibly the most patriotic moment of our lives was when we stood in the America Royal arena with thousands of barbecue compadres listening to a twelve-year-old girl from the local 4H chapter sing the national anthem.
Kansas City is a melting pot of not only barbecue people but also barbecue styles. Texas beef barbecue and Memphis-style pork barbecue meld together in delicious ways, creating something that is both traditional and unique. Quite possibly the most populist and delicious dish in the world of American barbecue is Kansas City burnt ends. Traditionally crafted from humble cutting-board scraps, it has been elevated to a dish of great regional pride and a standard bearer by which all Kansas City restaurants are judged.
So don’t hesitate. The barbecue world is open to everyone. Just let the gas grill sit idle for the summer, burn a clean fire, and do your part to keep an American culinary treasure alive and well.
◁ Kansas City Tribute Sauce
This sauce is probably the most maligned barbecue sauce out there. So many barbecue joints in Kansas City have developed wonderfully balanced, perfect examples of classic American barbecue sauce, but the commercial stuff found on supermarket shelves across the country is unfortunately too sweet and gloopy, and it's riddled with liquid smoke. Here is our tribute to a great American classic.
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 30 minutes
Yield: 2 quarts (1.9 L)
INGREDIENTS FOR SPICE MIX:
1/4 cup (30 g) chili powder
1 tablespoon (7 g) paprika
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 teaspoon chipotle powder
1 teaspoon mustard seed
1/4 teaspoon celery seed
Pinch of ground cloves
FOR SAUCE:
2 tablespoons (28 ml) vegetable oil
1 medium yellow onion, minced
4 cloves of garlic, minced
1 cup (235 ml) white vinegar
1/2 cup (170 g) blackstrap molasses
1/2 cup (115 g) brown sugar
1 tablespoon (11 g) yellow mustard
4 cups (720 g) crushed canned tomatoes
2 cups (475 ml) water
1 cup (240 g) ketchup
1/4 cup (65 g) tomato paste
2 tablespoons (28 ml) Worcestershire sauce
METHOD
Whisk the spice mix ingredients together in a mixing bowl. Optionally, pulse the mixture in a spice grinder for 30 seconds to ensure maximum blending. Transfer to an airtight container.
Combine the oil, onion, and garlic in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and garlic are golden brown, about 5 to 7 minutes. Add the spice mixture and give it a good stir. Add the vinegar, molasses, brown sugar, and mustard and stir again. Increase the heat to medium high and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring frequently to make sure nothing is stuck to the bottom of the pan. Once the mixture boils, lower the heat to medium and simmer for 2 more minutes. Add the crushed tomatoes, water, ketchup, tomato paste, and Worcestershire sauce and continue to simmer, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes.
Cool the sauce to room temperature and purée in a blender.
STORAGE
Refrigerate for up to 1 month.
◁ Burnt Ends
Burnt ends are traditionally made from the brisket point, which can be difficult to source. Typically, you can only find it still attached to a brisket flat. A good butcher may be able to fabricate this cut for you (in butcher speak, the cut is known as “NAMP/IMPS 120B”) or you can buy a whole packer brisket and remove the point yourself. Save the flat for Beef Barbecue or Montreal Smoked Meat. You can also cook a whole brisket and remove the point once it reaches 200°F (95°C) internal temperature and then skip forward to the part of the recipe that calls for the meat to be cubed. Another option—though it’s not classic Kansas City—is to use beef chuck, which is widely available and produces excellent burnt ends.
If using a Weber Smoky Mountain Cooker or other water smoker, consider running the water pan empty. (Be sure to line the pan with a few layers of aluminum foil.) This recipe really benefits from a dry cooking environment. The goal is crunchy, crispy bark.
Prep time: 10 minutes
Cook time: 6 to 8 hours
Serves: 4 to 6
INGREDIENTS
1 brisket point or chuck roast (4 to 6 pounds, or 1.8 to 2.7 kg), trimmed of all exterior fat
1/2 cup (50 g) plus 2 tablespoons (16 g) Classic Kansas City Dry Rub
1/2 cup (125 g) Kansas City Tribute Sauce
METHOD
Prepare your smoker for a 275°F (140°C) 8 hour cook.
Remove the meat from the refrigerator. Apply 1/2 cup (50 g) of the Classic Kansas City Dry Rub to all sides of the beef. Once the smoker is ready, add the beef to the smoker. Close the lid and cook without peeking for 2 hours. After 2 hours, flip the beef and cook for another 1 hour. Check the internal temperature. Keep cooking the beef until the internal temperature is 200°F (95°C). You'll be close to this goal after 4 hours with a smaller chuck roast and 6 hours for a larger brisket point. When the internal temperature reaches 200°F (95°C), remove the meat from the smoker and place it on a cutting board to cool slightly.
In a saucepan over low heat, warm the Kansas City Tribute Sauce.
After the beef has cooled enough to handle, slice the meat into 1-inch (2.5 cm) cubes. Add the cubes to an aluminum pan. Drizzle the sauce on top and sprinkle in the remaining 2 tablespoons (16 g) of Classic Kansas City Dry Rub. Toss to combine. Return the pan to the smoker and cook for 1 hour.
Serve with sliced white bread and Pickled Onions.
STORAGE
Wrap leftover burnt ends tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate for up to 3 days or freeze for up to 1 month.
◁ Butterfly Pork Butt Burnt Ends
Yes, Kansas City burnt ends are always made with the point of the beef brisket. However, the pork butt possesses many of the same characteristics of a beef brisket point. Both the butt and the point are heavily marbled and almost impossible to overcook. Pork butts are also quite a bit cheaper and easier to procure. Trust us; give this one a try.
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 8 hours
Serves: 12
INGREDIENTS
1 boneless Boston butt pork shoulder (6 to 8 pounds, or 2.7 to 3.6 kg)
3/4 cup (75 g) Classic Kansas City Dry Rub, divided
1/4 cup (48 g) turbinado sugar
1 cup (250 g) Kansas City Tribute Sauce
METHOD
Place the pork butt fat side down on the cutting board. Position a large sharp slicing knife parallel to the cutting board. Slice the pork butt partially in half starting from the end where the shank bone was removed. Stop slicing just short of the “money muscle,” the tubular muscle that runs across the butt opposite of the shank bone. Open along the cut. You should now have one long 2- to 3-inch (5 to 7.5 cm) thick piece of pork shoulder. Trim any portions that are significantly thicker. Trim all excess fat from the exterior of the meat.
Sprinkle all sides of the meat with 1/2 cup (50 g) of the Classic Kansas City Dry Rub and then the 1/4 cup (48 g) of sugar. Let the pork sit at room temperature for up to 1 hour as you prepare your smoker for 275 to 300°F (140 to 150°C). Smoke the pork for 6 hours or until it reaches an internal temperature of 180°F (85°C). Remove the pork from the smoker and let it rest for 20 minutes. Once the pork is cool enough to handle, slice it into even 1- to 2-inch (2.5 to 5 cm) cubes. Place the cubed pork into an aluminum foil pan. Toss with the Kansas City Tribute Sauce and then sprinkle with the remaining 1/4 cup (25 g) of Classic Kansas City Dry Rub. Place back on the smoker for an additional 1 to 2 hours until the pork is well caramelized and succulent and meltingly tender. You'll need to eat a piece of the pork burnt ends to check for the proper doneness.
Serve immediately with some cheap white bread, a side of fries, and some pickles.
STORAGE
Wrap room temperature leftover pork tightly in plastic wrap. Refrigerate up to 3 days or freeze up to 1 month.
Classic Kansas City Dry Rub
To us, Kansas City–style dry rub is the quintessential spice mix of classic American barbecue. Many commercially available competition-style rubs are based on a recipe similar to this one. You can add additional 1/2 teaspoons of intense exotic ingredients like curry powder or espresso powder to suit your own tastes.
Prep time: 15 minutes
Yield: 2 cups (200 g)
INGREDIENTS
1/2 cup (96 g) turbinado sugar
1/4 cup (56 g) kosher salt
1/4 cup (28 g) sweet paprika
2 tablespoons (15 g) chili powder
1 tablespoon (6 g) freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons onion powder
2 teaspoons garlic powder
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1 teaspoon celery salt
1 teaspoon MSG (optional)
